DriveSmart 65 Bricked

Before assuming it's bricked and making complcated changes, run Garmin Express again for the software or map update. Some of the time for my GPSs, the map update does not complete. It is no problem to run it again.

Also, make sure to charge the battery fully before updating. Since Garmin GPSs no longer come with a wall charger, this has become more of a problem. Charging from a USB port is not enough.

A low battery while updating could cause the update not to complete.

See this recent thread:

http://www.poi-factory.com/node/53561

I thought my GPS was bricked, I used a wall USB plug with 5a USB service, left it plugged in for hours. It came back to life.

I plugged in a USB wall outlet, tried also the car adapter. no luck, even put in a new battery from eBay.

Rather than start another thread this sounds similar.
After updating the software, I found when plugged into the power (traffic) cord the DS 65 was staying at 40% after turning off the car then restarting instead of "coming to life" as it used to. Tried a different cord, different power source no change. It does appear the battery is charging and the unit knows when it is plugged in.

I decided to see if I could reload the software update but the unit will no longer go into file transfer mode.
I looked in the hidden settings and MTB is picked. I unpicked it, restarted the unit, picket it again, restarted the unit but no go.
And after awhile of use even without losing power it will dim and you can not make it go higher than 40%. Again it appears the battery is charging.

We are traveling this summer so I bought a DS 66. If anyone ever wondered, an adaptor for the Mini usb connection on previous Garmins WILL work to attach to the now USB C connection if you want to make use of an older traffic cord.

If you want to keep using your DS 65, you may want to look at replacing the battery. The GPS may indicate that the battery is charging, but the battery might not be able to hold a full charge anymore.

Thanks, Certainly possible. Not sure if the unit no longer going into file transfer mode indicates something more. Even when I can get it to be full brightness for awhile and it shows full battery it no longer will go to MTP mode..

The GPS should go into MTP mode when connected to your computer.
Make sure you're using a USB data cable, not a charging cable. Also check the connectors.

You mentioned that you bought a DS66. Try using the USB data cable from the DS66 on the DS55.

Make sure the cable is plugged into the computer USB port, not a hub.

Try a different USB port on the computer. Restart your computer. Try a different computer. Disable USB Selective Suspend on your computer.

You should also try calling Garmin support at 1-800-800-1020. If they can't answer right away, they will call back. I have had good luck with them over the years. Not so much with their email support.

Yep all things to try and well appreciated but I did all that except call Garmin.
Have had Garmins back when I first joined here and before, have made modifications etc so I have a decent idea about them. I thought maybe others had this happen and found a solution.

Not only does the new traffic cable not fix the problem when I tried, the old one from the 65 works perfectly with the 66 even needing to use an adaptor from Mini to USB C. Battery could be the problem for dimming even when plugged in but not sure when it is fully charged and screen is bright (for awhile) and the unit still will not go into file transfer the battery is the problem.

I'll take the loss, have the extra traffic cable, reuse the case I was using etc and make use of the extra features of the 66.

There is a reason why Garmin discontinued all their traffic cables: you can't buy a GTM 36 or GTM 60 anymore, and Garmin doesn't have anything to replace them.

Your device, your choice. But be aware that using the older cables will limit you both geographically and temporally compared to using the included cable. I don't recommend using the old cables with these devices. I've also found the Drive app I've found to be superior to any cable.

This is helpful information.

Thank-you for the information, warning. App is indeed superior for traffic.
I use the app so using the older traffic cord does not really matter there.

Traffic aside, amps are amps and volts are volts, and both cords are well within specs of each other to use on the 66.
(The 65 cord is a variable 4.6-5.3V while the 66 is 5.3V) I might be hesitant to do it the other way around 66 cord on a 65.

Amps matter. A device drawing 1A of current from a 2A adapter is perfectly fine: the device only draws what it needs. The reverse is not true. A 1A adapter attached to a device needing 2A current will eventually overheat and possibly cause a fire.

Volts matter, but not as much. The half-volt difference between the low and high ends of the TA20 adapter's voltage range isn't likely to cause damage. The GTM 60 is smack in the middle (5V, 2A) of the voltage range. Even so, using the proper cable is a plus, especially given the DriveSmart power adapter and cable is a 2-pc design, with the DC power adapter including both a second USB cable port for charging aa second device - without compromising the power output for the GPS itself - as well as an 1/8" audio jack for connecting the sound output to the car, if the car has an aux jack.

To recap here, using an older adapter for traffic is going to bite you in the a**. Power with an older adapter isn't likely to damage the newer unit, but the value-added features of the newer power adapter make an older power adapter a less viable option than simply using the adapter the DriveSmart 66 comes with.

I could have used the DS65 power adapter with the 76, as I have both units. But why in the heck would I?

Thanks for the reply and info.
Wonder about the hours they spend on a USB computer port that is less amps. Some people do simulated routes for a long time..
I know I have used all my previous garmins without the Garmin cord in cars when using in another car other them the one I drive, and the unit adjusts by lower screen brightness.

I'm trying to find an article that talks about devices like a Garmin and a lower amp. I saved this from it but not the link.
"The power consumption of a Garmin GPS device, in amps, can be affected by various factors, and you can potentially reduce power consumption and thus amperage." "Thus the lowered screen brightness."

A standard USB-A port on a PC is limited to 12W, 0.5A. USB-C ports can charge the GPS easily. Basic USB-C ports can can handle 5V 3A (15W) devices while PD USB-C can handle, depending on type of PD, 20V 5A (100W) or 48V 5A (240W). The people who simulate routes, like what you see on YouTube, likely have devices dedicated for that purpose. It won't be the device they use in their car.

I've had a variety of devices throughout the years. The older units like the nüvi 200W, did have power supplies that only output 5V 1A. I have NEVER tried plugging in such an old power supply into my nüvi 65LMT for the reasons given in my prior posts. The Garmin dimming its brightness is because it isn't getting the proper amperage it needs, NOT because it's stepping down its amperage requirements. To the best of my recollection GPS receivers don't step down their amperage like that. There would be added circuitry involved for the GPS to intelligently step down its power draw like you describe. Circuitry that for the most part I believe is only found in smartphones.

Some Garmin devices, like the GPSMap series, can see an improvement in battery life through various settings, but those are not automotive GPS units. Having accumulated more than a few GPS receivers dating from 2007 to present, I have never seen an automotive GPS receiver able to do this. My recommendation of using the correct charger still applies.

OK, thanks.