Hopefully, POI Factory will allow this FYI post and it helps others. My 2019 Odyssey has a FOB/Push Button Start. On 3 different occasions, it would not start and all I got was a weak clicking sound as if the car battery was dead. Thankfully, each time, a good samaritan (there are still some out there) was kind enough to jump start my vehicle. I had a difficult time believing that the car battery had gone bad in just 2 years and I was considering purchasing a new battery. At idle, the charge rate was 14+ volts and in the off state 12+ volts. What the heck??!!. Checking numerous Internet forums related to "no start" situations, I finally came across a suggestion to check the FOB battery (mine was a 2032 wafer type battery) and it tested at just a tick under 3 volts. I installed a new 2032 battery over a week ago and I have not had a "no start" situation since.
Apparently the car's electronics does not get along well with a low FOB battery! Now I carry a spare 2032 battery in the glove box. In retrospect, when the FOB battery was low the dash displays and the push button start were not as bright as normal and the brake pedal did not depress at all. Also, the lock/unlock button and the remote start function had not worked properly. The price of a FOB (2032) sure beat the price of a car battery or starter. An acquaintance just spent $1,000.00 for a starter at a dealer - I bet the dealer changed his FOB battery too - no accusations intended.
On the Ford Explorer FOB when you open the rear hatch, that is the only one that unlocks. Locks back wen you close it. Nice to just be able to thow some items in and continue on your way.
The 4 doors as someone posted can be changed in the car settings on locking. The car settings gives you a lot you can customize. My settings are set so all the doors lock once you get going. Also turned off the headlights staying on all the time.
Now if only I could permanently disable the start stop garbage (where car shuts off when waiting at a light).
What is the year, make, model and engine? Usually the feature can be disabled but it often is not in the manual.
It is a garbage feature and said by experts to only gain you about 2% to 4% in mileage, the 4% being for someone who does a lot of it town driving and the 2% if you do mostly highway driving. So, if you get 28 mpg in city driving and save 4% to will now get 29.1 mpg. If you get 35 mpg the 2% savings will get you 35.7 mpg. The highest number I've seen quoted in savings is 8% in which the Society of Automotive Engineers stated "Most people think the amount of fuel saved using a start-stop system is negligible, but in reality, that fuel burned while idling at a stop adds up quickly. A study by the Society of Automotive Engineers found that using start-stop can see a car's fuel economy improve by over eight percent in heavy traffic. That might not sound like a lot, but over time, it adds up to a whole lot of wasted gas." But take note, the key words "...in heavy traffic."
You also have to look at the mechanism that provides the restart; some use hydraulics but if you have the normal starter then you also likely have a AGM battery which also costs more to replace. The starter is also a heavy duty starter and there are modifications to the cooling system.
'22 stinger 2.5 turbo.
Someone puts out a module that ties into the wiring to retain the previous state. It's somewhat costly, around $100, and requires tapping into the car's wiring. Something I have no problem doing but not so on a brand new car. Most of my driving is urban, not stop and go every 3 minutes. It's become habit to start the car, then press button to disable this each time.
A simple preference setting would be nice to change default from always enabled to always disabled. If I want it on, i'll press the switch to turn it on for that instance. They force other garbage on you like active forward collision, also always enabled but defeatable (turns back on after an ignition cycle).
Yes, the car does use an AGM battery. An h7 iirc.
Over on the stinger forum there is some indications that simply holding the button down will disable the feature. A few owners report doing this for several mnths without any harm.
I did something similar on a 2005 Accord; so long ago I don’t remember what it was. Dealer wanted a couple of hundred to fix things. I opted out and as I left the mechanic told me to wedge the button in, then put black RTV and let it harden.
^^Negative. No way to default it to off. It's re-enabled on subsequent restarts.
Are you sure? An rather large group of people say pushing the button in, and holding it with w wdge or tape, in, will work. Having said that, the comments seem to be relative to the 2020 models and earlier.
Although I suspect it requires a unique set of circumstances, some sources say the defroster going full blast on a windshield can crack it. See https://www.kdrv.com/content/news/Are-you-Properly-Defrostin...
I believe that there needs to be a chip or "star" from a rock or something. I had windshields in 2 different cars have major cracks from using the defroster on iced windshields.
Modern windshields are made from 2 sheets of glass with a plastic layer between them. When the defroster is used, the inner glass sheet expands quicker than the outer one, as the plastic between them acts as an insulator. The heated inner layer expands an stresses the outer layer causing it to have a major crack.
BTW - the link above is broken.
It's also a security feature against potential carjackers. My wife appreciates this feature when getting into her car at the mall. Unlocking just the drivers door prevents someone from entering the vehicle from on of the other doors.
Protect against a broken window?
Maybe that's,an extra cost feature?
Sure, wedging something in there is a possibility too, albeit not very elegant. The ideal solution is to just allow for a normally disabled function and let me enable it when I want it.
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