our 2350LMT gone--replace or not?

If you don't want to spend so much money there are plenty of older models on ebay or Facebook Marketplace that should be more than sufficient to fulfill your needs. Amazon is another option: refurbished DriveSmart 65 models can be found there for about the same price as a new Drive 53 but with the larger screen and Alexa integration (if desired).

I feel it worthwhile to have a GPS in the car, and not just for the red light camera alerts. In my experience the GPS is simply more robust for long trips than a smartphone. I have friends of mine who ended up borrowing my DriveSmart 65 for a trip to Georgia last year simply because their smartphones overheated at the half way point of the trip. When they came back from the trip, upon returning my DS65 I gave them an old nüvi 57LM that was in my possession. For future trips they are always ready.

If you liked your old 2350, there is a new open box unit on eBay for $70:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/226766583027?_skw=garmin+2350&epid=...

You may also be able to get it cheaper by making a lower price offer.

If you rely on the RLC's, consider the update frequency. It's been my experience that the Apple database isn't as complete, or updated as frequently as the POI file maintained here. At least that has been the case where I travel.

Some have suggested eBay units but if you go that route I’d suggest going to something later with a larger screen. I’m partial to the 2689. I’ve rarely used the phone which has let me down in some of my travels.

for the ideas, still haven't decided so we shall see...

Well, if you don't run RLs, you don't need rlc alerts. However, for longer trips, a Nuvi is better than a Smart Pnone because it works anyplace except maybe in a cave. You don't need a cell signal.

I am replacing a Nuvi 3597LMTHD, which I loved. Would it be better for me to get a Drive 53 or DriveSmart 65. I dont want to get one that is no longer supported by Garmin.

was looking at the Drive 53 without traffic and it's $99.xx on amazon. I think the price dropped since I first looked. I know it's at a price point where we shouldn't stew about it, but I still wonder if I need one at all....I can do without the traffic. Using the old one isn't an option for us it was damaged...

Interesting the 2350 did in fact last about 14 years. The 660 prior only 3.

I must have lucked out, My 660 is over 14 yrs and still going strong. The only problem I have is if I don't take the exact route it will try to recalculate and get lost sometimes but rebooting fixes the problem

also still going strong after 18 years. It’s a backup only and long ago I paid for lifetime maps.

our first and as I recall it was not cheap--I waited until gps dropped into the $300's before getting it. Oddly, it only lasted 3 years, something went wrong with the screen. I believe it was not uncommon as there were kits and repairs all over eBay/. Good to hear yours is still working.

The 2350 didn't fail on its own, it was perfectly fine after I think maybe 13 years? I took it with me when I traveled for rlcs on co business. It burned up along with our vehicle so that's on GM, not Garmin....

I stopped thinking about it and would probably get the Drive 53 without traffic for $99.xx

I would not get a unit without traffic, especially in donwstate NY. we have a lot of traffic.

Does anyone know what EX stands for?

on eBay, brand new Drive 53 EX is $79.91 shipped, new condition. About $20 less than amazon or Best Buy on the Drive 53.

Amazon's $99.99 for a new Drive 53, is not in stock and says delivery 6/20-7/5.

Here's what I could find.

https://support.garmin.com/en-US/?faq=FgDD7xDDmt45fpcYITOGj5

Also interesting, something I've dealt with for 10+ years on company vehicles--our new vehicle has zero cigarette lighter plugs. All USB-C, and I believe one USB-A. Then a few 120V AC. So this product is technically obsolete as one needs a cigarette lighter plug?

https://support.garmin.com/en-US/?faq=qovIMMpjh67kUuIOBw1qg8

Found this, looks like it would work:

https://a.co/d/cP2hhCD

Garmin Drive™ 53 EX

Comparable Model: Based on Garmin Drive™ 53 (traffic not included) with these notable features:
North America mapping.
Traffic is only supported when powered with a GTM 36 or 60, but supplies Garmin Traffic only, no HD traffic.
Mini USB connector.
Includes a 12V power cable, USB cable, and suction cup mount

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Power-Inverters-Transformer...

Double check for clearance around your particular 120 outlet

I am tossing around the idea of replacing my Nuvi 3790LMT which I got back in March 2011. It is starting to reach the end of its life. I've replaced the battery twice so far. The LCD panel has developed dead spots and I have not had any luck yet sourcing a replacement LCD panel/touch screen unit because of the age of the unit.

I like to use it for long trips as I always seem to end up in spots where cell service is spotty which causes havoc with the the nav apps on the mobile phone. Plus the routing on the phone just randomly ups and quits or locks up during a trip.

What are folks experiences with the Drivesmart 66, Drivesmart 76 or Drivesmart 86? Pros and cons for each of the units? I haven't found many recent comments in the archives which is why I am asking.

Thanks

https://support.garmin.com/en-US/?faq=FgDD7xDDmt45fpcYITOGj5

In short, these are made specifically for sale in certain stores, for example, WalMart. Certain features found in the Garmin model may be absent in the EX variant, such as Real Directions.

In general I have a positive experience with mine, outside an occasional reboot or two that could be the result of a firmware bug. Unlike your 3790, the DriveSmart x6 series use USB-C cables and have a detachable 12V power adapter that has a second USB port included along with a 3.5mm AUX jack for direct connection to a stereo system. DriveSmart x6 series units have both built-in WiFi and Bluetooth capabilities along with support for natural sounding voice commands not requiring a menu, along with nice high resolution screens. While providing traffic support with the included cable, for best results using the Garmin Drive app on a smartphone is recommended. The Drive app will update the traffic far more quickly and accurately than HD traffic using a cable.

Cons? Other than the occasional reboots mentioned above, nothing.

I ordered the Drive 53 no traffic on eBay, from, Best Buy.

I got a pop-up that I could get $5 off if I used Klarna.

After verifying they don't affect credit scores, I did, so it was $94.99 plus tax.

Yes, I do put this much thought into a $100 purchase lol

It will be fine, I think....

I was planning to replace my Nuvi 765t with a DriveSmart 66 but when I was reviewing Garmin's webiste, I saw that DriveSmart 77 came with a Dash Camera. I really did not want a 7 inch GPS but the Dash Cam is intriguing. is it worth the extra money ($200). I am not sure that I really need a dash cam but have seen posts where it came in handy.
I would lfove to hear any opinions on this decision.

Where I live a dash cam is necessary--Phila. It's literally the wild west. Rent "Fort Apache The Bronx" which is from 1981, that's what Philly is like in 2025. Complete lawlessness on the roads. One does not need a registration nor a license, nor an inspection, nor insurance, to drive, and limo tints including the windshield is ok.

One can literally screw in a paper tag from the web or printed on a Canon imageRUNNER that says "DOT EXEMPT" "UCC-1308" and cops will literally do nothing, because they can't, by law.

At the same time, a "great" front and rear dash cams with Starvis 2 are about $99, so why pay $200 for one built into a gps, I doubt it's very good....I got the Drive 53 for $95 without traffic. I use it for rlc and speed cams, not navigation.

Thank you. I appreciate your advice.

occurred with a new 2025 car. No cigarette lighter plug.

Only a USB-C and a USB-A.

Still not solved but for some reason, dash cam cannot be powered by the USB-C. Yet, USB-C is working and provides power.

Two solutions.

One, I bought a 100W device that provides 3 USB-A and 3 USB-C. Plugs into the AC outlet of the new car.

Secondly,got a USB-A splitter. Now, both the Garmin and the dash cam work. If my Garmin had been the traffic model, traffic would not work.

imho the idea with the car manufacturers is that those ports are for charging phones, and connecting to the car, such as Apple Carplay. They're not really intended to power gadgets. That's the only explanation I can come up with, to have only one of each in front. Also, there is a wireless charging pad.

I have the same issue with two of my GM cars that have no 12V outlets. The USB ports will not provide enough current to power my dash devices. Dealer says the ports are for charging phones, not powering other devices. I think the designers dropped the ball here.

One vehicle has an AC plug and I use the same approach you did with a USB splitter. The other car has no AC outlet. I was going to wire up a 12V outlet but decided to try another idea first. I bought a power bank with pass through charging. I connect my dash devices to the power bank and use the vehicle USB C port to charge the power bank.

Even with pass through charging, the dash devices will eventually deplete the power bank but it hasn't happened yet during 6+ hours of continuous driving. During rest stops, I turn off the dash devices and the USB C port recharges the power bank.

Seemed easier than wiring a 12V outlet, but I may have to do it anyway in the future if the power bank idea doesn't work out.

It will be interesting to see how the makers of these auxiliary automotive devices deal with this disappearing 12V outlet problem going forward.

I finally got the DriveSmart 66 and love it. However, my POIs do not show up on the map or sound the audio (except for the redlinght cameras), even though I elected that they show. Does anyone know what I can do to correct this.

Mine show up fine: they haven't changed much. The one thing you may want to do is increase the size of your on screen icon to 64x64px - yes it does work - so you can see it. For the sound, obvious statement may be obvious here, but make sure you have Sox in the POI Loader install folder.

I will try that.

I will try that.

The "sox.exe?" I will try that.

Just a couple of bits of info regarding sox...

sox.exe is needed to have custom audio alerts when using Garmin Express on a Windows computer. It's not required for Garmin Express using Apple computers.

Read the Factory's FAQ on sox, especially where to load it and which older version must be used. The FAQ also offers a download of the proper version.

If you use a Windows PC had custom audio POI alerts before and they're not loading now, my bet is that you replaced the computer at some time in the past