What car battery would you buy
16 years
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I grew up with my dad buying Sears Die Hards. So naturally, I got them throughout the 90's, and all the way up until 2009.
After that, I switched to Costco. They started out with 42 month no questions asked warranties. Then they dropped to 36.
Last year, they eliminated the replacement warranty altogether. Interestingly, legend goes that people routinely got new batteries right before the replacement warranty expired. So essentially it was 40 years of BOGOs. One guy in AZ even claimed he just got a new battery every 2 years (this is NOT how the warranty was designed, you could get as many batteries as you wanted where the original warranty was in place for the 42 or 36 mos).
I think that I'm sticking to Costco, even if the warranty is gone. Because from my experience they do fail, but seems to take 4.5 to 5+ years... my .02
Just remembered...once in 2015 I strayed and went to the Three Stooges. What a terrible experience. They discarded a vent tube (battery under rear right passenger's feet on our SUV), and when the battery failed in only 1 year (48 mo replacement warranty), they had an invoice for $228 when I went to pick up the car. I said it's under warranty I left you a copy of the original paperwork, and now you can't find it? Finally the mgr. came and was flabbergasted, he could not figure out how to do the transaction as warranty, so he simply issued a credit for $228 as a mgr override. imho this is why that co is out of business, almost. A warranty goes through the mfg. This is I think an outright loss. At any rate I won't let anyone touch oil, nor batteries, or anything else if I can help it lol
I trend towards AutoZone for
I trend towards AutoZone for my battery. I've had good luck with them.
"Anyone who is capable of getting themselves made President should on no account be allowed to do the job." --Douglas Adams
Preference is Diehard
Most aftermarket car batteries sold in the U.S. are made by three companies that build them for retailers: Johnson Controls, which supplies more than half of the market; Stryten; and East Penn.
I’m still partial to the Diehard line as I’ve always gotten good longevity from the product. I do not trust the digital devices used to test batteries these days. About a year ago I had an Accord that would not start but every light on the dash came on, relay clicked, etc. After a few attempts it would start. It did this about once a week. AutoZone, Advance, and the Honda dealer said the battery was fine. The dealer wanted $1200 to rotate the torque converter one bolt hole per TSB. We have an old time shop in our village. He tested the battery the old fashioned way, with a load back. It failed miserably at high current draw. It was replaced and the problem in a year has never repeated itself.
John from PA
Mine conked out a few weeks ago ...
...after 5 years. Not bad for an el-cheapo unit that only had a one year warranty. There was an Autozone right across the street when it finally gave up, so I went with a Duralast gold which has a three year warranty. So far so good.
What is the new costco
What is the new costco warranty? I haven't bought a battery from them in a number of years now.
Edit, n/m. Apparently 36month prorated as mentioned.
Walmart is 4 yr's free replacement. $10 more for a H7 agm than costco.
Brand
I used to shop by battery brand, starting with Die Hard in the late 1960's. Over time, it became apparent to me that quality isn't necessarily brand specific.
We have most of our auto repair work done by the local dealer where we purchased the vehicle. They have an award winning service department and we let them choose the battery. They seem to know which brands are the best at any point in time.
I used to average 4 or 5 years on a battery when I did the replacement myself but the dealer installed brands are lasting 7+ years.
Another thought on batteries
Newer cars have the engine “auto start stop feature” which on many cars can be temporarily disabled. But because the engine is started/stopped frequently, these cars typically have a recommendation to use an AGM battery.
John from PA
^^Part of my start up cycle
^^Part of my start up cycle -
1) push engine start button
2) push idle start/stop disable button
3) give verbal command to disable forward collision warning - on more than one occasion this garbage has hit the brakes when least expected
The joys of owning a '22 (or newer) MY car.
Yes, I have nightmares about
Yes, I have nightmares about that when using radar cruise.
But, it does provide functionality that I use.
I just need to keep my focus on driving and watching for cars in front of me that are pulling off on an exit, or going around a left curve with a slower car in the right lane.
And I have a 2017 version.
Good luck with Walmart
Good luck with Walmart Everstart, just as good and cheaper than other parts stores. They used to have 3 versions - economy, mid range and premium (my definition). There is a difference between the economy and the other 2 - it was much lighter (less lead). I think the only difference between the mid grade and premium is the price and the warranty. Not sure if they still do that. Just replaced my OEM battery in a 2017 SUV with a Walmart Everstart AGM. If your car came with an AGM (most cars now), only replace with an AGM type battery. Even the Walmart AGM battery is expensive. My lead acid in my other car was relatively reasonable.
I would go with Costco
Check the price on same class of Battery at Autozone vs Costco. Yes interstate isn't wasn't it used to be but last time I checked Costco was $80 cheaper for AGM battery.
it seems
someone posted that if Walmart with an auto center, they are given a hard time trying to use the warranty. If no auto center, then like Costco.
I do know the three stooges and Advance Auto gave me a hard time. And for some reason, it's very mysterious on how the warranty transaction works. At Advance Auto I said you can't do math, can you? When asked why I said that? I said well, it's 2009, and I got this battery in 2005, and it has an 84 mo warranty. Does it seem to you that 7 years have gone by? And another guy burst out laughing so I said, what are you laughing about? And it escalated from there. they insisted warranty expired so I went to Sears.
I had thought and online would support it, a warranty claim, goes against the mfg. If a mgr overrides it, it's not warranty at all, the mgr is basically issuing a credit within their allowable discretion.
Interestingly, I have a BMW OE battery that was installed in 2011, still in use today, 2024. This isn't uncommon as my wife's aunt has a 2006 330i and the original battery was replaced in 2018. Prolly all cars today, but at least the E9x BMWs have an intelligent battery sensor where the car follows an algorithm and charges a battery less as it ages, which is why a "registration" should be done to tell the car it has a new battery. Changing from lead acid to AGM is beyond registration and is called "coding." I paid the dealer $250 in 2011 for the OE battery install made by Exide in the USA.
Actually, today? My buddy's 2023 Traverse uses the same 94R battery--likely as mentioned the stop/start feature requires a larger battery than my wife's H6/48. But that's a large battery imho for a small car like my BMW.
Car matters
Interestingly, I have a BMW OE battery that was installed in 2011, still in use today, 2024.
Yes, we talk too much about lifetime as a function of the battery and too little about the role the car plays in the matter.
My personal good experience in this line came when I went to Sears to get a replacement battery on my 1987 BMW 325i. The only paperwork I could find for battery in the glove compartment was 10 years old and I was sure that could not possibly be paperwork for the battery currently in the car. But the technician looked at the code for manufacturing date on the battery and affirmed that I had really gotten 10 years out of that battery. This would have been a Sears Diehard that I probably purchased about 1991. At the time I had not ever gotten even four years out of a car battery.
personal GPS user since 1992
idle start stop garbage
Actually, today? My buddy's 2023 Traverse uses the same 94R battery--likely as mentioned the stop/start feature requires a larger battery than my wife's H6/48. But that's a large battery imho for a small car like my BMW.
My stinger has this start stop nonsense. The engine itself is a 2.5L turbo I4, battery is specified is an H7 AGM (H8 AGM for the 3.3 v6). Seems like a monster of a battery for such a tiny engine. I wonder just how many amps the motor actually draws to start.
As mentioned earlier, 9/10 times I disable the start stop (unless I forget). So that should help battery life longevity. In addition since the car tends to sit more than driven, I'll put it on the battery tender every so often.
COVID years
I have been buying batteries at Costco for years. Their batteries seem have stable lifespan lasting about 5 years. The recent one however quitted working after 7 years which surprised me a bit. I then realized I haven't drove a lot since the abrupt of COVID due to WFH a lot.
While on the subject of BMW
how many people have replaced a battery on a MY2002 or newer and not "registered" the battery? The process ("coding") is something BMW recommends. The short story is the process is done to alert the DME of the vehicle that a new battery has been installed. This is needed because in some BMW's after MY2002, the DME adjusts the charging rate to the age and charging performance of the battery. Put a new battery in without registration; the DME doesn't know it is new so charges the new battery just like the battery that had been removed.
For the long story, see https://www.bimmer-tech.net/blog/item/115-bmw-battery-replac...
John from PA
Just bought a new one at Costco for my car
Saved close to $100.00 bucks. Three year warranty but should get a couple of years beyond that. The original battery in the car was 7 years old.
"Everything I need can be found in the presence of God. Every. Single. Thing." Charley Hartmann 2/11/1956-6/11/2022
battery
Die Hart
my car
how many people have replaced a battery on a MY2002 or newer and not "registered" the battery? The process ("coding") is something BMW recommends. The short story is the process is done to alert the DME of the vehicle that a new battery has been installed. This is needed because in some BMW's after MY2002, the DME adjusts the charging rate to the age and charging performance of the battery. Put a new battery in without registration; the DME doesn't know it is new so charges the new battery just like the battery that had been removed.
For the long story, see https://www.bimmer-tech.net/blog/item/115-bmw-battery-replacement-and-registration?srsltid=AfmBOoqE5nP-LhKP5qxkNVYhtjGYpTGBPzdG_MF6R_900jRP36YiBY8r
is a 9/06 production 2007, so it was an early 2007. I have also some "early" software to do the battery registration, but it won't work with my car. I also have the Rheingold app which I needed to do the ABS pump replacement (BMW states that there is no way to evacuate all the air from the abs pump without doing the automated bleed procedure). I assume this can also do the registration, but it's all in German and I don't speak German, so it's a struggle.
Long story short I believe there are many on the internet who skip the registration process. That would mean the vehicle is not charging the battery to its potential, because it's following an algorithm by which it is being charged like an old battery. Much as I hate to do it, I'll likely take my car to the dealer and to get bang for buck, have them install an AGM. It's < $100 more on a job today that's already over $300. Again, why is a dealer installed battery from 2011, working today in 2024? I'd have to say it's the IBS. Coding is not registration--going from lead acid to AGM is coding. Turning off the DRL is coding. Battery registration is programming. It sounds innocent enough, but when coding, the dealer has the vehicle on a 12V power supply, because there are scenarios that can brick the DME. Power supplies are another topic in themselves. They tend to cost well over $500 because they can supply 70A+ yet the voltage doesn't waver. A cheap supply such as an $80 Walmart, the voltage is not clamped down upon so as the amps go up to 70, the voltage spikes at over 16, effectively frying the electronics. From HS, v=ir.
Me to get around the high cost, I bought an RV power supply over the pandemic when everything was being given away ($125). This is necessarily clean power, because RV appliances are run off of it. I also tested where the car was drawing almost 30A, and the voltage was 13.4v (I think) as designed....
I need a Rheingold
how many people have replaced a battery on a MY2002 or newer and not "registered" the battery? The process ("coding") is something BMW recommends. The short story is the process is done to alert the DME of the vehicle that a new battery has been installed. This is needed because in some BMW's after MY2002, the DME adjusts the charging rate to the age and charging performance of the battery. Put a new battery in without registration; the DME doesn't know it is new so charges the new battery just like the battery that had been removed.
For the long story, see https://www.bimmer-tech.net/blog/item/115-bmw-battery-replacement-and-registration?srsltid=AfmBOoqE5nP-LhKP5qxkNVYhtjGYpTGBPzdG_MF6R_900jRP36YiBY8r
is a 9/06 production 2007, so it was an early 2007. I have also some "early" software to do the battery registration, but it won't work with my car. I also have the Rheingold app which I needed to do the ABS pump replacement (BMW states that there is no way to evacuate all the air from the abs pump without doing the automated bleed procedure). I assume this can also do the registration, but it's all in German and I don't speak German, so it's a struggle.
Long story short I believe there are many on the internet who skip the registration process. That would mean the vehicle is not charging the battery to its potential, because it's following an algorithm by which it is being charged like an old battery. Much as I hate to do it, I'll likely take my car to the dealer and to get bang for buck, have them install an AGM. It's < $100 more on a job today that's already over $300. Again, why is a dealer installed battery from 2011, working today in 2024? I'd have to say it's the IBS. Coding is not registration--going from lead acid to AGM is coding. Turning off the DRL is coding. Battery registration is programming. It sounds innocent enough, but when coding, the dealer has the vehicle on a 12V power supply, because there are scenarios that can brick the DME. Power supplies are another topic in themselves. They tend to cost well over $500 because they can supply 70A+ yet the voltage doesn't waver. A cheap supply such as an $80 Walmart, the voltage is not clamped down upon so as the amps go up to 70, the voltage spikes at over 16, effectively frying the electronics. From HS, v=ir.
Me to get around the high cost, I bought an RV power supply over the pandemic when everything was being given away ($125). This is necessarily clean power, because RV appliances are run off of it. I also tested where the car was drawing almost 30A, and the voltage was 13.4v (I think) as designed....
Whew, after all that I need a Rheingold beer! Unfortunately, even though there were five plants around the United States and Rheingold was the leading beer brand in New York State in the 1940’s, 50’s, and 60’s it sadly died out. But it was my favorite while in college.
John from PA
Clarios and Exide make the batteries, regardless of store/label
There are two major auto battery companies in US: Clarios (formerly Johnson Controls) and Exide. There are also smaller companies like East Penn.
Clarios makes batteries for NAPA, Interstate (Costco), Autozone, Advance Auto Parts, and Walmart, plus many of the auto manufacturers. The Clarios batteries are the same for the same specs, regardless if they put an Interstate label, a NAPA label, etc.
So the Group xyz with abc Cold Start Amps with the Interstate sticker is the same battery as the Walmart battery with the "EverStart" sticker, from the same manufacturing line at Clarios. (Note that Walmart does source some batteries from Exide, so you need to compare specs for like to like comparisons).
Walmart and Costco usually have the best prices for the same battery.
In general, quality and longevity has gone down since COVID.
I agre
I trend towards AutoZone for my battery. I've had good luck with them.
My batteries from auto zone lasted about 6 years
the other
There are two major auto battery companies in US: Clarios (formerly Johnson Controls) and Exide. There are also smaller companies like East Penn.
Clarios makes batteries for NAPA, Interstate (Costco), Autozone, Advance Auto Parts, and Walmart, plus many of the auto manufacturers. The Clarios batteries are the same for the same specs, regardless if they put an Interstate label, a NAPA label, etc.
So the Group xyz with abc Cold Start Amps with the Interstate sticker is the same battery as the Walmart battery with the "EverStart" sticker, from the same manufacturing line at Clarios. (Note that Walmart does source some batteries from Exide, so you need to compare specs for like to like comparisons).
Walmart and Costco usually have the best prices for the same battery.
In general, quality and longevity has gone down since COVID.
Interesting thing I learned was that Interstate is a marketing company. They seemed to have built up a good reputation maybe from racing. But they don't make anything. Kind of like when people criticize Rock Auto if some product is late or sold as new but used. Rock doesn't stock any products nor do they ship anything at all. Pretty amazing how successful American cos are when they don't have any assets. Non asset businesses do experience ups and down.
My thinking is Costco is so large, that in buying products from them, they are necessarily products that have been vetted by them. Since I've never had any Costco batteries that outright failed, rather they have simply aged as expected, whether they remove the warranty or not, doesn't really matter that much. It matters to those who did the BOGO, or, had stores that simply gave them batteries for life (I think this one is a training issue where the employee didn't know what they were doing). It's pretty unlikely to need their prorata warranty since only 36 mos. though in the big picture, that's like saying there is no warranty, now that the replacement warranty is gone.
To draw an analogy--if a garden hose has a lifetime warranty, what are the odds of actually using it.
Long ago, I dreamed of Optima batteries because they looked cool. My understanding is that they were made by Johnson Controls, now Clarios. I was influenced by the car forum when I was younger. Today, when one thinks about it, it's not about looking cool, it's about starting the engine. Another topic would be how many cars today use a prop rod to hold the hood open, when they use to have hydraulic struts. That's cheapification. Example, the new Toyota Camry (another topic, Toyota's demise). What a wild world!
Battery Almost Seven Years Old
In reading the posts on this thread, I wondered when was the last time I had bought a new car battery. I went to my file and found that my last battery purchase was 12/5/17 for an Optima battery I purchased online from Summit Racing.
My current battery is currently 6 years, 8 months and 12 days since I placed the order. The battery was installed the same day the battery was delivered as my prior battery had suddenly died.
When issue developed with
When issue developed with OEM Battery on Wife's Ford....
Local Interstate Battery place was convenient, quick, reasonable, and has been in service for 5+ years.... I'd go back for another...
A 2689LMT in both our cars that we love... And a 2011 Ford Escape with Nav System that is totally ignored!