Car battery warranties

Pre Costco, I always believed a car battery was nothing except for its free replacement warranty. I had zero luck at auto parts as they were trained to reject warranty claims (a story for another day). Sears Die Hard seem to have no issues so I liked those as did my dad.

Later on, I did care mostly about the warranty, knowing that all were made by 3 companies regardless of brand (Clarios, Johnson Controls, East Penn).

Then, I discovered Costco around 2008. Have purchased probably 10 batteries across 4 vehicles from them. Yes, Costco members ripped them off blind and now, THEY HAVE NO REPLACEMENT WARRANTY!!!!

Yet, I still buy their private label. Because I know that across those 10 batteries, I didn't have any issues and upon load testing, they were borderline after 4 years, outside the former 36 or 42 mo free replacement warranty anyway.

I just, and finally, installed that H8 Costco flooded lead acid battery yesterday in my BMW, and I registered it, and verified the entry was in the vehicle. Costco crushed the competition at $124.99. Advance and Batteries plus were $205 and $230 per google.

A Costco tech said he had heard they are going to even begin load testing for pro rata warranty and I noticed a barcode was affixed to the H8 they ordered for me, and scanned into the system. It is hard to believe how much fraud was committed on something like a battery worth $85 to $180. Would a normal person shoplift for $180? Not likely. But they did with car batteries.

The way I look at it is no different than gasoline. Costco/Kirkland does such volume that if something were wrong it would affect a large number of people and we'd hear about it.

The first 2011 Enclave battery replacement was in 2014 done by the Three Stooges. One--they completely removed the vent tube letting it gas into the car, stupid. Two--the premium 48 mo free replacement battery failed in 10 mos and it was a major hassle to get a replacement they held our vehicle for 2 days. The brand is Bosch. It was a H6. I got the free replacement eventually and put a Costco right in myself. I still have that H6 replacement to this day and use it if the power goes out.

Thanks for posting I do find this topic interesting. More than warranty, I'd look at price (auto parts prices are through the roof sometimes $100 more than a warehouse club), and ease of using the warranty.

I'm going to stick with Costco. But one may want to try BJs or Sam's as I believe they still offer a replacement warranty. Last I read Costco was a 284 bil. co., it may be more today. Yes, I am a shareholder and a fanboy, but let's face it, they are a monster with stellar customer service. Since I feel their batteries don't fail, I'm good with the replacement warranty being gone. They sell way too many to have issues. I have no way of knowing if the one I put in yesterday, will last 14 years like the one that came out. It was only at 48% capacity on a load test and resistance was 6 ohms, so it would fail at some point. I've seen the Lexus battery go down to about 65% after 4 years, and keep in mind that has no active management, charges the same day one as day 1,460. The BMW does not charge aggressively at the onset, i.e. the long life. I believe Audi is the same, not sure what other vehicles do the same. Imagine if we could replace these things less often, it would help the environment, but I get it that concept was from the 90's.

...but in my case any Costco is about 20 miles away so I'm not a member. That being said certain Duralast batteries have benefits under the warranty that are quite extensive and not mentioned in the linked article. Not just replacement...

By the way, on your comment "...Have purchased probably 10 batteries across 4 vehicles from them". It's only a small sample on my part, four vehicles including a 2011 Lincoln MKX, a 2013 Honda Accord, a 2000 Porsche Boxster and a 2022 Acura RDX; I have only replaced four batteries, two of which where in the Boxster that I kept for over 20 years.

Agree, my sample is so small it is neither reliable nor valid, sorta like Consumer Reports, just musings and conjecture. But imho practical at the same time. I do the "what if." What if the battery doesn't last beyond the warranty as it did the other times, and it does fail? I know that the Three Stooges, and Advance Auto, will immediately attempt to upgrade and deny the warranty, from experience. I know from experience that Sears did not, but they took FOREVER to install a new one.

Again, the fact that a battery lasts "about 4 years" imho is a product of overcharging them, from day one, to day 1500, for many vehicles, it's the same. So at the beginning the battery is being overcharged, thereby shortening its life. My BMW battery being 14 years old, and an aunt's replaced at 9, and then all over the internet 9 seeming to make sense, I think is a product of the intelligent battery system

https://www.bosch-mobility.com/en/solutions/sensors/electron...

I thought I broke this lead yesterday, the small blue end. There is zero room to maneuver the battery around the cables, I did my best trying to suspend them out of the way, but no room, when I say no room, I mean no room. I found the little blue connector had been yanked out (DOH!). Someone on YouTube did say he recommended disconnecting it, seems to have very little resistance to being unplugged so I should have. But nothing in fact broke

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-adapter-lead-hella-6112...

My car's OEM battery is at ~4.5yrs right now. Car is barely driven so battery gets the battery tender treatment most of the time. I started it up the other day after sitting for about 5 days. It was +15F when I started. It cranked normal, no slower than usual this time of year.

The battery is an H6 but the engine is a tiny 2.5L 4cyl. The H6 is because of the idle start stop garbage I suspect.

Given my driving habits I think keeping it charged up with the battery tender will extend its life significantly.

Years ago, after replacing the 24F battery in my G37 (built 12/2011), rather than returning it for core value I set it aside in the garage, semipermanently attached to a battery tender. I used this battery when I needed a 12V source in the garage.

In 2021, I put that same battery (now 10 years old) into the honda accord (2.5L 4 cyl as well). It started no problem. At one point that summer I had the battery tested at pepboys. According to their tool it still had ~400 CCA's available. Originally, the battery was rated for 700 or 800 CCA.

Given the current car's smaller engine, I think it will be possible to extract more life from the OE battery than the usual 3-4 years.

Once I notice the battery slower cranking, even after full charge, then it will be time to replace.

Load testing is the way to go. I didn't know until recently that 6 m Ohm is acceptable for a 720-900 CCA battery. 7 is the threshold although these are numbers. As if 199 cholesterol OK, and 201 not OK, when in reality they're the same. Usually new is like 3.5 m Ohm to I have thought 6 was replace. But technically it's 7.

v = ir I do remember physics

What happened to me a few years ago is my 2013 Honda Accord started to be erratic on starting. Sometimes it would start and sometimes I just got dash lights and a bunch of clicking. Advance and Autozone with their IPad shaed devices said the battery was OK, as did the Honda dealer. The Honda dealer wanted to do a TSB that involved unbolting the torque converter, indexing one hole in the pattern and bolting everything back up. In theory Honda was saying the ring gear had developed a wear pattern and the starter could not deliver the starting torque. Along with the repositioning of the torque converter, the dealer said to replace the starter. All told a $1200 bottom line.

I have a nearby independent who had the old fashioned load bank, the type with large diameter cables. When they loaded the battery down (maybe 100+ amps) it failed miserably. I simply replaced the battery and it has been fine for years.

Those hand held devices use an algorithm to calculate CCA. Great when offering free battery tests but sometimes the old fashioned testing methods are best.

I used to have the cheese grater kind, it would get very hot, I figured that's not really good, so I prefer the handheld electronic ones. I do get that it tends do dummy things down for the new generation of society: GOOD BATTERY, or, REPLACE. That's all they want to know.

How many people understand v = ir, or even why newer cars can have less torque than HP, say our old Enclave. 288 HP, 270 ft. lbs. Same engine in a Camaro, 327 HP, 270 or 268 ft lbs. Understanding physics would help a person to visualize what's going on. The first number can be fudged, the second, it can't. And really if you want a GOOD BATTERY or replace oversimplification, I'd avoid any engine that has less torque than HP. Because in layman's terms it's not usable HP. My mom's Acura TSX, 200 HP, 140 ft. lbs.

Today, many think understanding things is a waste of time. Before there was the web, now there is chatGPT.

I got a tour of an ice rink yesterday and I smiled, when the Honeywell display showed that the supply was set to 20F. Even my 6th grade son knows about 20F.

Any warmer, skating is slower, due to additional friction. Any colder, it's difficult to skate. 20F is optimal.

I told a buddy and he said I'm 44 yo and today I learn about a layer of quasi fluid that makes ice slippery--no thanks, I've got AI.

Anyway, dealers are serious parts canons, their techs don't make money solving problems. Their money is made replace and installing parts. I think an indie shop relies upon repeat and long term customers, as well as their reputation. They often have greater skills as a result.

My 2022 GMC Sierra pickup is now 40 months old, 4 months past the 36 month warranty expiration date. Truck wouldn't start yesterday morning with a temp of +9F. Lights work but just clicks when trying to start. Dealer says it's likely the battery and to bring it in.

This is the 12th new GM vehicle I've owned and the first one to have a OEM battery die in less than 7 years.

I usually replace batteries myself but this one is in a bad spot. Too many doo dads to move out of the way and no easy way to grab the battery. Auto Zone wants to sell me a special lifting tool to remove it.

Sooo... It's back to the dealer. Can't wait to see what this is going to cost.

Times (and warranties) have certainly changed.

that GM has any active battery management. I had thought the Enclave did, as when the battery was bad the volts went up to 16V. I think it's simply poor or so-called dirty voltage. Remember the days, around 1994-2016, when everything wasn't LED? GM DRLs were always burned out one side, and it was both the bulb and socket. GM had a TSB that if customer complains 3157 bulb burns out repeatedly, install a 4114.

Nice, goes from 27 to 31 watts, making things even worse. v=ir

I'm a GM fanboy btw, sometimes I do wonder lol

Yes, Enclave needed a new battery every 3 years or so, way too premature. Clues would be all mpg info, trip odometer, gone. One extreme was SRS system disabled and needed to be reset.

the way things are today, I would guess a battery is $500, and anything less is a bonus. I'd still DIY because it's never gonna be rocket surgery. It's a physical thing. The BMW had a distribution box that had to be dismantled into 3 parts, and yes, it intimidated me for years. Then, it's not possible to get the cables out of the way and the battery is 52 lbs, and needs to be done one handed. But not gonna pay $600 or something, when I can DIY for $125....not well off enough maybe next lifetime

Last tidbit, it's interesting a 2025 Tahoe has a smaller battery than a 2007 BMW. There is no question the Tahoe has many more electrical demands. Not sure why they undersize the battery. I learned the BMW does have physical provisions for 3 sizes of batteries, mine had the H8 which is the largest.

I always buy a Costco Kirkland 24F and a Walmart EverStart 51R (Costco doesn’t sell it). Never had a single problem with either one and they lasted way beyond the warranty period. Both of mine are flooded batteries made by Johnson Controls.

I'm under the impression (don't know for a fact) that the 42 or 79 or 17 different little computers can't tolerate dirty voltage and the manufacturers have cleaned things up.

GM had a TSB from 1994-2014 about DRLs burning out. I was driving myself crazy as I just replaced a 3157 bulb and the same day, no longer working.

A person online revealed the GM dirty voltage and for all we know its the circuit that handles the DRLs--they go on when vehicle starts (are not on when ignition is on, engine has to be running), and they go off when headlights are on, so it is some logic and circuitry. He said if you look closely at your sockets they are most likely burned--instead of being light gray, you'll see brown. Sure enough he was right. I replaced the socket and we went back to the old scenario, bulbs burning out every 6 mos to 1.5 years. Then I used aftermarket LED, reducing wattage from 27 to 3.7. Only problem there is LED chips would vibrate off and fall into the housing.

This all goes back to why would anyone pay $500 for this

https://a.co/d/31yJUwF

When they could spend $100 on this

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Schumacher-Electric-12V-150A-Manu...

The former is regulated and clean, the latter is dirty and a good way to fry the electronics lol

I got my own RV power supply during the pandemic which is clean, I tested it, went down to 13.2v as designed when the draw increased. The Walmart above would likely go to 16v as the draw increased.

Unfortunately today, amazon is flooded with knock-offs, and the genuines have tripled in price. Good thing our salaries have kept up! lol

https://www.wfcotech.com/product-category/converters/wf-9800...

I don't know those brands, but if you can find them, they may be worth the trouble and often higher price. I always think of vehicle battery warranties the way I think of tire and mattress warranties. Prorated and unless there's a quick failure, probably more trouble to collect on than they're worth, so I don't pay any attention to them. I just change the product out when it's time.

Costco for me or Farm & Fleet if it’s cheaper.

I have gotten 7-8 years on some batteries and 5 years on others. Yes, 3 mfrs. but made to the purchasers requirements. Not sure if Walmart still sells battery types but the good, better. best applied. There was a huge weight difference in good and better, the best I believe was a better battery with a better warranty. I guess 2 betters=best. I have gotten 2 Walmart batteries and so far they have lasted.

The one I pulled out 1 1/2 weeks ago was 14 years old.

I am confident that's a result of the battery management system. Not overcharging when new, charging aggressively over time.

It was 6 m ohms when removed, and I thought that was not acceptable, but apparently looking at a grid, 7 is the threshold.

We do tend to waste resources, i.e. we replace things by feel a lot in the USA. That's OK I guess. We're also oversold on risk aversion.

Costco has no warranty now, essentially, but I still have bought their product, because, I feel warranty isn't needed. The end lol

Well, my 40 month old GM OEM battery I mentioned in an earlier post, tested weak at the dealer. He said since the vehicle is used infrequently, I could probably get a year or so out of it if I used a battery maintainer. I use maintainers on all my older batteries but I don't on newer ones.

I had them replace it anyway to the tune of $300. It's an OEM GM battery with a 36 mo. warranty. I'm also adding a maintainer with the hopes of getting more life from this one.