Epoxy suggestions?

They confirmed crazy glue does bond proving it by lifting a car.

They also found bonding surface was the weak issue. Buster wearing a wet suit was glued to a plastic racing seat while car was pulled into a wall. The bond held but the fabric failed.

Devcon Plastic Welder

http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?app=Bond%2FSeal&...

I have never used this "Plastic Welder" but I have used Devcon Epoxy and it does a great job

Without more specifics on types of surfaces......and so on......my contribution is a product called JB-Weld. I've used it many times over 30 some years.......and have always found it to bond to just about anything. I used to make training mockups and used JB to bond dissimilar metals, plastics, nylons, you name it.......together.......it always worked.

http://jbweld.net/index.php

Have you considered silicone? Contractors used it to put a stainless steel back board behind our stove and - after 10 years - it's still there and tight against the wall.

I would just go with regular crazy glue. I'd bet the gps' plastic housing would break before the crazy glue bond gives out.

Get some JB Weld, ask your local hardware person, it not only glues metal. Scuff up both surfaces so they are very rough (gives the epoxy something to grab), let it dry/set for 24 hours.
If that won't do it then you need to drill/rivet or what ever to get it to hold.

I have had good luck with JB weld. If you want 5 min epoxy IMHO the only brand to consider is Loctite. Keep in mind it sets in 5 minutes but it takes a few hours to obtain decent strength. I use it all the time with excellent results. Other brands of 5 min epoxy... I have had very mixed results. I use Loctite products of many types in my profession and find them to be of high quality around the board.

I'll double up on the recommendation for Devcon Plastic Welder. Epoxy will 'stick' to plastic, but not bond to it. Plastic welder is a special formulation that does actually bond to the plastic - it's effectively a mix of epoxy and plastic cement.

JB Weld, or Auto Goop. Silicone is great a well.

JB Weld or Marine Tex should be able to hold it regardless of the smoothness of the mating surfaces. But if both surfaces are flat and there's decent contact area then contact cement should work well. Marine Tex is strong enough that you're supposed to be able to tap it and thread bolts into the stuff.

I use West System epoxy for repairing boats. It doesn't stick to stainless steel or plastic very well. There isn't any glue or caulk that sticks to stainless at all.

More important, putting anything onto the back of the GPS will prevent heat from escaping. I would suggest using a bracket attached to the OEM GPS mount.

dobs108

grazy glue - any brand or 5 min epoxy (foxy poxy or other brand) or gorilla glues. I wouldn't use silicone because it will flex and maybe tear under the twisting over time.

JB-Weld is by far the best I have used as it adheres to metal very well - be sure to rough up both surfaces with a piece of emery cloth and create a cross hatch pattern. Clean both surfaces with isopropyl 90% and let dry for a secure bond.

Use JB weld. I took my Nuvi mount, cut it apart and "married" it with some Ram Mount parts using JB Weld, and JB welded the ball mount into a small compartment in my dash about 4 years ago and I now have a very cool semi permanent powered mount in my car.

Pics or It Didn't Happen
Would love to see the final produt, it may give others a new mounting idea.

Give me a bit of time, maybe tomorrow and I'll post them.

the pictures and got them loaded. :)

Picture one
Picture two
Picture three
Picture four

The Ram Mount I used

I took the RAM Mount, cut the center out including the bracket that goes over the top that holds the Nuvi in place. I then JB welded the RAM part to the Garmin part (with its power port) and using the RAM brackets and the Garmin mechanism to hold the Nuvi in place.

In picture two you can see where I JB welded the ball from the mount.

In picture four you can see the Garmin and RAM names embossed in their respective parts.

Does that area where the ball is glued has a lid on top to cover the mount?

The reason I asked is for security reasons when the vehicled is parked and the PND has been removed.

In my car I have a 260 without the mount and is jammed inside the center console space and it lets me close the lid, I have to come up with something similar to what you did for my 2460 because the full mount doesn't let me close the lid with the unit on it.

A good silicone adhesive would be a good choice.

Make sure the surfaces are cleaned per instructions.

It will close only if I remove the GPS along with the bracket, which I do if I'm leaving the car. I put the bracket and GPS in the glove box and close the little door hiding the ball mount.

Thanks everyone for all of the product recommendations and mounting advice.

Per Jery and jrozsnaki's suggestions, I'll be sure to scuff up both surfaces with some emery cloth in a crosshatch pattern, and clean with rubbing alcohol before going for the adhesion. As for the epoxy, I'll probably go with the JB Weld for the first try as that seems to have received the most votes.

Being a belt and suspenders sort of guy, though, I might also use some gorilla tape just so I'll have some backup in the event of catastrophic failure of the epoxy bond.

Thanks again to everyone for the great suggestions. It's been quite a learning experience.