TPMS need them or a waste of money?

but what is the condition of the tires? If replacement is just over the horizon maybe hold off.

I have looked at the condition and replacing them is still a ways off, thanks for the response.

I reset my tire pressures, based on the typical temperatures .

I park unerground and I have a spreadsheet that I use to correct for the temp in garage and the usual temp outside. At this time of year I'm adjusting pressures every few weeks.

I always check my pressures on the TPMS to see that the pressures are about where they should be.

I recently got a warning that one tire was half of what it should be. Can't figure out the problem because they're now all holding pressure.

Last year I was a couple miles from my house on a ten mile drive to a medical appointment with my wife. My Tesla screen popped up an alarm which I think started by asserting that a tire that is normally 42 psi had dropped through 28 or something like that. While that was plainly abnormal, the really concerning thing was that the pressure dropped rapidly in the next mile, which was constantly updated on my screen. So I pulled off the limited access road and found a bit of dirt that felt safe enough to leave the car in.

We used Uber to get to the medical appointment and home. Then used the roadside service from my USAA insurance to get it towed over to Discount tire, which found one of the bolts that my daughter had driven over in a construction area.

The tire still had over 10 psi when I got it to the dirt patch so I don't think I did any sidewall damage driving it there. It was lower when the tow guy had me drive it up onto the truck but that was only a few feet. The tire shop considered it okay to use and I'm still driving on it thousands of miles later.

Without TPMS I think I probably would not have noticed the tire being low until it was out on the interstate and behaving extremely badly. That might have given me control problems in traffic, and quite likely would have damaged the tire.

I was alerted by TPMS when one of tire pressure went down to 21 PSI.
It happened to my spare tire which I wish I never have to use it. I had it lowered down and inflated.

Edited - It is stock TPMS.

If you are a Costco member they supposedly do replacements at 445 to $60 per wheel. The Glen Mills PA location or Newark DE is probably a tossup as far as distance.

I am and use the Glen Mills location about 8 miles from home, but I ended up getting just the one at the place in Delaware (4.5 miles from home) for $75, no tax.

Here's the thing though, my display had the front left out, but the machine they use to check had the dead sensor on my right rear tire. I get my tires, including the spare, rotated once a year and apparently the last time they were rotated the sensors were not realigned with the correct spot on the display. So how good are these things if they can show the wrong tire needs addressing. I would check all four anyway but that's just me, how many folks would look at the front left, say it looks good and never check the right rear.

I bought a new Toyota Avalon without TPMS. I had only put a couple of hundred miles on it when we took it on a road trip to Roanoke, VA to see my sister-in-law. We were driving down the WV Turnpike when we approached a toll booth. I noticed upon approaching the toll booth that a semi-truck had blown a tire and there were pieces of tire across the road and I hit one of the pieces. After going through the toll booth and driving about a mile or so, the car started driving funny. I stopped and checked the tires and found the passenger rear tire pretty much flat. I changed the tire and drove on in to Roanoke. The next morning, I drove to a tire shop expecting to get the flat repaired. Nope. The guy at the shop said that the tire couldn’t be repaired because the tire had gotten hot in the distance that I had driven it and that the sidewall had a balloon on it. I had never heard of this and thought maybe since I was out of state, he was trying to pull a fast one. So I drove over to the Toyota dealer to get it checked. Same story! The lesson here is that if TPMS was installed I would have been alerted to the falling tire pressure and would have been able to stop and change the tire sooner, saving myself over $250.00 for a new tire.

...that the vehicle has to relearn the locations of the sensors. That being said from what I see online the 2013 Wrangler seems to relearn by driving for 20 to 30 minutes or about 15 miles. Different cars vary in method. My 2013 Accord is a simple selection of an onscreen menu.

My 2013 Wrangler system didn't relearn a thing. I had my tires rotated in early spring, have been driving on them since, maybe a month ago the one sensor went out, front left according to my onboard display. I drove that month with the bad sensor until yesterday when the machine the tire guy used said it was the right rear, not the front left. I watched, only the right rear was changed, the display now says all are good. So although what you mentioned you read I can vaguely remember hearing before, didn't apply here. The tire guy used his machine to get the sensors back to reporting correctly.

I find that some variance in the pressure shown, when the car is at rest in the underground parking. All tires see the same temperature and there's no sun beating on any tires and no heat source.

After about a half mile drive, the sensors all stabilize to the same pressure or within 4 KPA/0.5 PSI of each other. I use a digital gauge to set the pressure and I often get them all set identically.

It's normal to see a wider variation as I'm driving, since some tires get the sun beating on them and the front tires usually show a bit higher due to the extra engine & passenger weight.

Is there something about the sensors, that they have to have rotation to stabilize, on the first day's drive?

I think in order to extend battery life the standard sensors do not transmit when the tire is not rotating. While I have read claims that 15 mph is required, I have seen mine transmit a first new reading at much less.

My guess is that the sensor itself does not need stabilization time, but that the interface used to display it to you may do some short-term averaging--thus giving the effect you describe. By contrast, the display on my Tesla just jumps to the new value on first changed reading. If the garage temperature overnight was a lot different from the temperature at which the tires came home, this can be quite a jump.

Or maybe your sensors really are different from mine.

There is a way to emulate the sensors but it will cost around $100 and is only available for some vehicles (not the 2013 Wrangler). Details are at https://tpmsbypass.com/product-category/tpms-tire-pressure-s...

FWIW that linked site is in Ireland, current tariffs to the USA would probably make that product a lot more $$$.

https://jscan-docs.readthedocs.io/en/latest/general/tpms.htm...

If anyone goes this route, one solution during the entire process is to disconnect your battery for a few minutes.

Be warned doing so rests all computer stuff, including the history needed to pass an emissions test in Pennsylvania, not sure about other states. I had a dead battery once and a week later had my state inspections scheduled and was told there wasn't enough different types of driving history in order to pass the state emissions test. The mechanic told me the types of driving needed and doing so wasn't that hard to do, just the inconvenience of having to go back a second time. Only good thing was that PA allowed one free retest.

TPMS if a federally mandated safety item, which means they have to be working for the car to pass its annual safety inspection.............

not necessarily true. Check the content at the link below and you’ll see several states listed where the functionality is not required for state inspection.

https://www.tirerack.com/upgrade-garage/what-are-state-tpms-...

As mentioned in my OP I asked my machanic if they are required for inspection in PA, he said they are not required, he is the one who inspects my car so I'm sure he would know.

We like to keep our cars 20-25 years, so generally speaking we are willing to fix things within reason.

Until this year, our cars were 2006, 2007, 2011.

Through no fault of our own, the 2011 was a total loss in May, so it only lasted 13.5 years.

The 1998 Maxima was junked in 2023, 1 month shy of 25 years on the road.

So on the 2007--all 4 TPMS were replaced when it got new tires in 2016. Shop didn't charge anything, but, I did have to pay $140 for all 4. This is a BMW so parts tend to be less expensive than Japanese or American (combination of the wide availability and being able to clearly distinguish between OE, OEM, and aftermarket. I went OEM, not OE, and not aftermarket). Should I have done that? Maybe not, because on this vehicle it doesn't tell the psi, only if there is a flat. Also, I "do not" have TPMS in the snow tires. So warning is on all the time.

The 2006 is a Toyota product. It doesn't have sensors. It relies on the ABS system and rotation, and, IT DOES NOT WORK. I got a flat and it didn't tell me.

Thew 2011 was a Buick. We never replaced the tpms through 4 tire changes. I bought the relearn tool when it had dropped to $25--it was $90 in 2011. Today I think $9. This procedure was a PITA because the support and online said to position the tool as if you're adding air--WRONG. Supposed to touch the sidewall and the corner lamps and horn acknowledged that the sensor was relearned (its position).

As far as I can tell, our 2025 GM "does" have TPMS and for whatever reason, the psi seems to be consistent. It was "not" on the 2011 Buick where it didn't give a flat warning, but, it would say 35/35/35/31 with the low psi changing among the 4 positions, giving my wife anxiety.

This is my long winded way of saying, "NO," I would not spend money replacing TPMS from what you describe. Just like if your ABS light went on and it were yellow (not red), I would ignore it and realize no ABS.

Based on what you've described, I think spending on TPMS is a waste of money. Just get yourself a $25 tire pressure gauge (highly accurate) and keep it in the vehicle. We're old school, as you said, we've done without for a good portion of our lives (my 1998 didn't have it).

Good luck, my .02.

Again, to clarify, yellow warning on ABS means the system is off (due to a fault), red means a braking problem, which should not be ignored. My Maxima had the ABS yellow warming, on permanently, for the last 5 years of its life, it passes PA safety when yellow. If fails if red.

The BMW had an ABS failure in 2016 (the only issue in its life of 19 years, $4,200 at dealer which was a no way, so I diy for under $500). Can't DIY on a Japanese car it's the end of the car if it happens, and far more than a German to repair. American, not sure, might also be the end of the vehicle (we don't typically spend $6k+ on one single repair).....

I was unaware Costco provided this service.

Thanks for the response (everyone else too) as mentioned I had no intention of replacing it, drove it for a while with it out and yes I do have a couple reliable pressure gauges, always have. The reason I ended up getting a new one was the remote start wouldn't work because of the system fault the TPMS was throwing.

Having had cancer and going thru intense chemo my body changed, alot. I used to wear shorts in 40 degree weather, now I get cold at 68 degrees. I need the remote start to warm up the car/heater or I will literally be shaking until the heat kicked it. So for that reason alone, I decided to part with $75 and replace the sensor.

They shouldn't need them but for most people they are necessary. Laziness and don't want to know is the norm, that's why most cars now tell you when to change the oil and it still is not done at the proper interval. The only way to enforce oil changes is if the check engine light flashes and the car goes into limp mode whenever oil change is exceeded by 15% or more overdue.

There are two types of TPMS systems; direct which measures and displays the actual pressure (and hence uses sensors) and indirect which measures the rolling diameter of the tire. Seems as though Tesla in some models has dropped the direct system and has switched to the indirect system which is significantly less expensive.

https://www.notateslaapp.com/news/3241/tesla-removes-tpms-se...

Honda has used indirect TPMS in several models for about a decade.

According to the link provided, this is new for Tesla in their "Standard" trim level model 3 and model Y, which have been for sale for a couple of weeks.

Thanks for the link--I knew some of the other things cheapened up on the Standard trim, but not this one.

The new Y no longer comes with FM or AM radio capability. See https://insideevs.com/news/775016/tesla-cheaper-model-y-3-no...

As the link makes clear, removal of the FM radio is just for the new Standard (i.e. Cheapest) model 3 and model Y. But Teslas haven't had AM radio forever.

a thread about Teslas be started new, not mixed into this one, as this was about TPMS.

Again, imho, there are things we didn't have say in 1998, that we don't need today. Then, there are things that are beneficial. TPMS is the former, ABS is the latter. jmo

I think TPMS is more trouble than it's worth--don't folks do a visual check then a check with a gauge, regularly (rhetorical)? If so, then TPMS is like a fuel range showing on the dashboard, a distraction.

Why I think TPMS is a detriment, some need replacement, and then reprogramming. Cost and effort.

If based on the ABS system, then fine, let it be. But OP had to pay for new sensors, just as I had done 1X in my life because I elected to.

John, my post, titled "Related content (Tesla)" was intended to be informative; primarily about direct and indirect TPMS systems. The comment about Tesla, again was informative.

Yes I was ready to ignore them, until my remote start wouldn't work because of the system fault message the bad TPMS was throwing. I also mentioned the reason why I want the remote start to work. Since getting cancer I get cold easily, and my body takes a long time to warm up, I don't want to be uncontrollably shivering the first 5 minutes driving down the road in winter.

If you review the experiences narrated by some people posting on this thread, we have found TPMS useful on occasions when we had a relatively sudden rapid leak. I don't know anyone who checks their tires frequently enough by gauge that they would've noticed my tire losing more than two psi a minute as it went down the road.

It's hard to tell. So far, I've had no major issues with the TPM systems in my 3 GM vehicles. They are required by law for all new vehicles manufactured after 9/1/07. The only cost I've seen is what these systems added to the sticker price.

I find them handy for notifying me of fairly large discrepancies in tire pressure but the system in my truck is too sensitive. Just a difference of 2 PSI causes an alarm. 5 PSI would be more practical IMO.

This can happen when parked with just one half of the vehicle exposed to the sun. The alarm usually clears after the vehicle is moved, but as a previous poster mentioned, some of the remote features won't work when the alarm is active.

not experienced it on the 2025 GM, seems all 4 tires are always the same, up and down together.

But on the 2011 Buick, all the time, one of four tires would be 2-3 psi lower, relative to the other 3. There was no fault and my wife would be concerned. it would constantly change. I rented a 2015 Cadillac in Chicago that did the same. Again, since our 2025 is always the same for all 4 tires in unison, maybe the systems have improved...

This is exactly my experience. Exiting a restaurant and cranking the engine on (not by hand anymore!) the
TPMS announced a failure in the left rear. It looked fine but the pressure according to the TPMS was well below 60 PSI instead of the 80 I regularly needed then. I found a screw in the tire, it was during business hours, and Discount Tire was <1 mile away. That saved this 75? year old (at the time) from getting the spare out from under etc.

The TPMS modules in the truck now are ~8 years old and when I next need tires I'll change them if they haven't failed first.

My experience with my TPMS was when I was alerted to a low tire while my car was in long-term parking at an airport. My return flight was set to arrive after 10 PM and was delayed even more. I was able to make plans for a sealant repair from a nearby Walmart before starting a 3-hour trip home, as my car doesn't have a spare. It worked out that I used the car's air compressor to fill up the tire and didn't need the sealant. Glad I was not caught off guard.
My routine is to check tire pressures the first of each month with a manual gauge and air compressor in the garage. I can read the TPMS pressures from a Scangauge, but don't do it as a rule.

seems to have the pressure sensor built into the valve caps and the system is solar powered.

https://www.amazon.com/Fvtga-Tire-Pressure-Monitoring-System...

That is intriguing.
1. The Amazon review rating is held down by an abnormally high number of 1-star reviews.
2. In order to work, the provided substitute cap must depress the pin on your tire's Schrader valve--that is the only way for it to sense the pressure. That means if the provided cap fails to hold pressure, your tire loses air right through the monitoring device.
3. On the positive side there are quite a few glowing reviews. Many of them suggest this is a good solution for older cars which lack an OEM TPMS.
4. each sensor has a 1632 lithium battery, which needs to be replaced when it runs low. Stated lifetime is over a year, but unless you get a low-price source you could pay more for replacement sensor batteris than for the unit over the life of using it in your car. (don't pay the Radio Shack price)
5. Still it is remarkably low-priced.